Chateau De La Motte Fénelon

“Return visit after ten years - nothing had really changed, which is a good thing in my book!”

My wife and I first stayed in this establishment almost exactly ten years ago. The first time was our last overninght stay on a very long road trip from the south of France, before we boarded the homebound ferry at Calais the next day; this time, it was our first stop of choice on a tour of the WW1… more

My wife and I first stayed in this establishment almost exactly ten years ago. The first time was our last overninght stay on a very long road trip from the south of France, before we boarded the homebound ferry at Calais the next day; this time, it was our first stop of choice on a tour of the WW1 battlefields, along with a little pre-Christmas wine buying. In those ten years, nothing has really changed, which is a good thing in my book, and, by the way, I'm talking about the hotel, NOT the fact that me and the missus have stuck it out together for the past decade!! Situated just north of Cambrai centre, the hotel is easy to find if travelling by car. The council estate neighbourhood is still quite oppressive, although the landscaping has improved since our last visit. Driving through the gates of the Chateau, you are immediately aware of the ample free parking area, right in front of the chateau. Unfortunately, the front of the building is bordered by a fair number of flag poles, each flying a very, very tired and faded example of the flags of our European brothers and sisters. I am sure that these are the same flags that flew there ten years ago, and it certainly shows. Owners - please be aware: the flags are the very first thing you see on arrival at the property, and will create an overall important "first impression". Therefore, please replace them with something that looks impressive! Once safely parked, you turn to observe the extremely impressive facade of this mid-nineteenth century building. You enter the building through the front door via a set of six stone steps (I did not notice any ramps for travellers with a disability, but I'm sure assistance could be provided). The reception area is impressive - certainly not your Holiday Inn or Best Western norm - the reception desk is just to the right, and the welcome was warm. I tried to book in using my basic verbal command of the French language, and the receptionist was very gracious in allowing me to do so, and not laughing! Our room was a superior option, on the first floor, and our initial impression was "wow!" - very spacious and impressive... The bathroom was very good, with an excellent bath and shower, but you need to take care getting in and out of it, especially when it gets slippery. Complimentary soap, toothbrushes and toothpaste are provided. I love these cheap freebies, and always take them home, as I am certain that I will eventually find a use for them, even when deposited for eternity in my shed back home.. On the downside, the toilet was not located in the bathroom, but was in a small room in the entrance hall. Beware of the steps into and out of the bathroom and toilet, especially on dark nights... Once we had settled into the room, we started to notice some of the inevitable blemishes: faded and stained carpet, repro (but cheapo) period furniture, and original sash windows that had just been cheaply overpainted, whereas they should have been removed, stripped down, repainted and reinstalled at the last restoration. We arrived tired after a long road trip from the English midlands, so had a cheeky late afternoon nap in the double bed. This was bliss! SOOOO comfortable and, of course, when you eventually wake from your slumber, you are confronted with the reality of a truly superb premium room, with wonderful views to the parklands to the rear of the chateau. Upon arrival earlier in the day, we opted for a dinner reservation for later that evening, and breakfast (at extra cost) the next morning. This certainly proved to be a contrast of two very different experiences... The in-house restaurant is situated in the basement, resplendent in its arched brick vaulted ceiling and, apparently, used for the storage of ammunition by the Germans during World War 1. Initially impressive but, in reality, it was in in a shabby state of maintenance, with loose skirting boards and electrical wiring hanging down, which looked like it was last safety-checked in World War 1... The printed menus were an amatuerish, laminated affair, and contradictory to an establishment that has aspirations to provide cordon-bleu food. There were very few choices on the menu, which actually made ordering quick and simple; the wine list was good, but understandably pricy... We both chose separate starters: mine was the "pefect egg" was perfectly cooked and very well presented. My wife opted for the tomato salad, which was nothing special, and had the texture commesurate with something that had been stored in a refrigerator for a good while. For the main, we both opted for the beef fillet (34 Euros each), which was well cooked, but way too chewy and sinewy to be classed as a what I would consider to be a "filet". Quite frankly, we could have purchased beter quality steak in the local Intermarche... On the positive side, the wine list was very good; we opted for a bottle of Columbard Cotes de Gascogne - deliciously crisp and a totally inappropriate coice to accompany red meat but - hey! That's how WE roll!! Also in positive terms, the service was superb. The (VERY French) head waiter directed the service like like clockwork, and his only back up, a more mature typical "Ch ti me", was also efficient and more friendly, offering us demi cafes at the end of the meal as "his treat to us" Thank you m'soir"! Wine included, the dinner cost more than the actual room but, on reflection, it was worth it... On the subject of meals, the following morning's breakfast was a shambles...Situated in the dining area on the ground floor of the Chateau, it was a "help yourself" affair, with no visible staff to provide the basics: clean cutlery, milk for the tea or coffee, and no paper napkins. We arrived downstairs for breakfast at 8.30am, not particularly late, to find that there was little choice left, and no staff to facilitate this. We had to scavenge cutlery, napkins and milk from the empty tables of those who had breakfasted before us, and we were utterly ignored and disregarded... On the positve side, the pain au chocolates were the biggest we'd ever seen, so several were assigned to our bag for sustinence for after we had checked out and later fancied elevensies or lunch on the road... With all this said, would we stay here again?... The answer is, of course, a resounding YES!!! Give it a go, folks: love it or hate it, you will encounter a unique and special experience...

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