Ryokan Tanigawa

“Snowed In at Ryokan Tanigawa”

I am addicted to the Japanese onsen ever since a Japanese friend brought me to one several years ago. I now try to visit a new one when I go to Japan. This year, I had a business trip in early January and the same friend planned another onsen trip. This time, he insisted that enjoying onsen in t… more

I am addicted to the Japanese onsen ever since a Japanese friend brought me to one several years ago. I now try to visit a new one when I go to Japan. This year, I had a business trip in early January and the same friend planned another onsen trip. This time, he insisted that enjoying onsen in the midst of winter, with snow falling on the ground was an experience not to be missed. My previous onsen experiences had been during the fall, coupled with viewing the changing of the leaves. I could not disagree, outside onsen -- hot steaming water and falling snowflakes would indeed be a wonderful experience. We chose Ryokan Tanigawa as our friend had also stayed there before and vouched for its all around appeal and value. This ryokan is in Gunma prefecture, in Minakami-machi, a two hour regular train ride from Tokyo Station. To complete the experience, we left for Minakami on a Saturday morning, bought our eki-ben lunches from a dizzying array at Tokyo Station and took the slow, regular train which would take us straight to Minakami. Eki-ben are special bento lunches sold in most train stations. Each station usually has its special eki ben that no other station has -- usually it is a dish or meal specific to that place. The week-end we chose to travel also coincided with the annual Eki Ben festival, so the choices at Tokyo Station were truly numerous. Armed with our eki ben, we took our reserved seats on the train, ordered our cold beers and settled down to eat and enjoy the countryside views. From the flatlands and plains, we soon approached the mountains and when the train started to climb, we started to see grounds covered with snow. By the time we reached Minakami station, it was snowing steadily and everyone in the train was truly excited -- everyone of course was headed for their own ryokan and onsen destination as Minakami is really an onsen town. Ryokan Tanigawa sent a van to pick us up and it was a short 15 minute ride to the Inn. After removing our shoes at the lobby and changing into slippers, we were escorted to the small reception area where we were served hot tea -- specially made at the Inn and a very tasty sweet made of aloe jelly and sweet beans that just melted in the mouth! While we were thawing out, they brought the forms for checking in and when these were done, we were escorted up to our room. A very nice Japanese lady insisted on carrying our bags. Ryokan Tanigawa has about 30 rooms on 6 floors. We had two rooms on the top floor and all rooms had its little sitting area with a picture window that looked out on the hills and mountains outside -- by now, all covered with snow. The rooms include yukatas and towels, that you bring down when you use the onsen. We couldn't wait to change and go down to relax in the hot baths. There are indoor baths, for men and women and outdoor baths for each too. After a quick dip in the indoor bath, I quickly went outside to soak in the outdoor pool -- and yes, what an experience to luxuriate in hot water with snowflakes falling all around me. Pure bliss! The Inn serves great food (always assured of high quality Japanese food in all onsens) and we enjoyed our dinner and breakfast in a small private room with a personal server who was attentive to all our needs and explained each and every dish that was served. I made sure I had my fill of the baths -- two before bedtime and one more the next day but you always feel that the time spent in an onsen is always too short. We left Ryokan Tanigawa the next morning at around 10 and took a cab to the shinkansen station in the next town, 30 minutes away. The bullet train was an hour faster than the regular train and the noise and chaos at Tokyo Station seemed like light years removed from the peace and white quiet of Ryokan Tanigawa.

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“A nice hide-away hot springs Japanese inn deep in the valley of Minakami in a very small village”

The mid-sized inn is moderately priced and good value. Nice hot spring onsen with an indoor and outdoor bath. It was snowing and a long dip in the outside bath was a special treat. Dinner and breakfast were served at the dining area in a private room. The dinner was a fabulous kaiseki style cour… more

The mid-sized inn is moderately priced and good value. Nice hot spring onsen with an indoor and outdoor bath. It was snowing and a long dip in the outside bath was a special treat. Dinner and breakfast were served at the dining area in a private room. The dinner was a fabulous kaiseki style course with much of the menu from local vegetables, mushrooms and fresh water fish. There was a small museum just behind the ryokan with modern art and Korean antique porcelain, and an eclectic collection of several other paintings. The museum's owner is from the small mountain village and the owner of the famous 'Tenichi' tempura chain. A enjoyable museum worth the visit while going on a walk. The service was very good and appears the two main managers were husband/wife ensuring you feel welcomed and looked after. As we were getting ready to check out a gentleman from the ryokan was already out in the cold and snow, removing snow from our car windows.

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“Excellent dinner”

Unlike most ryokans the check-in time at Tanigawa is 1300hrs which was fantastic as it gave uptime for an hour+ walk downhill to a road side lay by for a photographic shot of Mt Tanigawa and then back uphill thru the back roads and an unpacked track to the river side and then back to the Ryokan. Th… more

Unlike most ryokans the check-in time at Tanigawa is 1300hrs which was fantastic as it gave uptime for an hour+ walk downhill to a road side lay by for a photographic shot of Mt Tanigawa and then back uphill thru the back roads and an unpacked track to the river side and then back to the Ryokan. The onsen was average. The room was well appointed. The Kaseiki dinner was excellent, one of the best in the 50+ ryokans we have visited. We intend for a return visit so that we can make the hike up Mt Tanigawa.

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“an authentic traditional experience”

We were the only non Japanese tourists staying at the guest house and although sometimes the language barrier did create some interesting situations, it just added to our fantastic experience here. We wanted a traditional Ryokan and that's exactly what we got. We caught a fast train from Tokyo (app… more

We were the only non Japanese tourists staying at the guest house and although sometimes the language barrier did create some interesting situations, it just added to our fantastic experience here. We wanted a traditional Ryokan and that's exactly what we got. We caught a fast train from Tokyo (approx 2.5 hours) then a bus and then we were in the countryside of Gunma with it's famous hot springs. The Ryokan is gorgeously furnished and the staff very attentive and helpful, although if you are expecting a full tourist service with english speaking staff, this is not the place. Our room was lovely if a little uncomfortable in that the chairs with no legs mean that you get a bit stiff when just hanging out in your room. The futons get set up before you sleep, so there's no bed to lounge around on. We found the turndown service utterly charming along with the little socks, shoes and kimino you get given to wear whilst in the ryokan. We felt very relaxed in this peaceful environment and booked in to use the private outdoor onsen at the top of the hotel. There is also a public onsen although we weren't quite game to bathe starkers with the other guests, so the private spa was perfect for us. Until we got in there and there was very loud construction noise from next door. So we cut our bathing time short and asked to be reallocated a time once the builders had finished for the day. The kaiseki food was amazing - presented incredibly although challenging to understand what certain ingredients were and not always my cup of tea food wise, but really added to the authenticity of the experience. If you are not well acquainted with kaiseki style food then take some snacks! We also figured out that there were extra futons in the wardrobe so on the second night had a much better sleep as we each used two futon mattresses, which softened the experience of sleeping on the floor. I had a facial at a nearby spa, which reception set up for me, which was brilliant. The surrounding area is lovely and we went for walks, even walking into town which was a little bit far! But they do have a van and driver available to pick you up from the station and take you to treatments etc. However, since we had to leave before 8am we had to get a cab which was about $20 for a 4 minute ride where the driver coasted down the hill in neutral. That's cabs in Japan though, extremely expensive! Overall, we loved our stay and felt like we experienced something truly special. This is not for everyone but if you want an authentic experience this is it.

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